How the Lobster Roll Became a New England Icon
- This Cafe Life
- Jul 27
- 3 min read
Updated: Sep 2

There are few culinary icons more synonymous with New England summer than the lobster roll. Whether you like it warm and buttery or chilled with a touch of mayo and celery, this humble sandwich captures the briny essence of the Northeast coast in every bite. But how did the lobster roll become such a beloved staple? Let’s dig into its salty, savory origin story.
Lobster wasn’t always a luxury. In colonial New England, it was considered a poor man’s protein - plentiful, easy to trap, and often fed to prisoners or used as fertilizer. It wasn’t until the late 19th and early 20th centuries that lobster began shedding its reputation and gaining popularity among diners in Boston, New York, and along the Eastern Seaboard.
The lobster roll, as we know it today, didn’t arrive on the scene until the 1920s. Most food historians trace its origins to a small restaurant in Milford, Connecticut, called Perry’s. As the story goes, a customer asked for his lobster meat served on a bun so he could eat it on the go. The result? A warm, buttered roll overflowing with sweet lobster - a New England classic was born.

Maine vs. Connecticut: The Great Debate
Once the lobster roll caught on, it didn’t take long for regional interpretations to emerge. In Connecticut, the roll is served warm, drizzled with melted butter, and tucked into a toasted, split-top bun. Simple, rich, and all about the lobster. In Maine, the version you’ll most often find is chilled. The lobster meat is mixed with just enough mayonnaise to bind it - sometimes with a bit of lemon juice or finely chopped celery for brightness - then served cold in that same split-top roll. For many, this is the definitive lobster roll, found at roadside shacks and harbor front diners all along the coast.
The Roll That Defines Summer
What sets the New England lobster roll apart isn't just the lobster - it's the roll itself.
Enter the Split-Top Roll: A Howard Johnson's Innovation
While the lobster roll itself may trace its roots to Coastal New England, the split-top bun - now inseparable from the New England lobster roll experience - has a story of its own. And for that, we can thank Howard Johnson's, the beloved roadside restaurant chain that once dotted America's highways.
In the 1940s, Howard Johnson’s was booming and needed a better way to serve its popular hot dogs and fried clam rolls. The standard side-sliced bun just wasn’t cutting it - it lacked stability and presentation appeal. So, the company approached Maine’s J.J. Nissen Bakery with a special request: create a bun with the crustless sides trimmed flat and the top split down the middle. This design would allow for easier grilling and a more upright, neat presentation. The result was the New England–style split-top roll, flat on the sides for buttering and grilling, with a top opening perfect for cradling hot dogs, lobster and clams.
The bun caught on quickly, especially in seafood shacks along the coast.

From Shacks to Staples
Today, the lobster roll has gone global, showing up on menus far beyond its New England roots. But true fans know there's nothing like eating one fresh by the water, where the salty air and the sound of gulls complete the experience. So, whether you're team butter or team mayo, hot or cold, know that you’re biting into a piece of New England history - with every delicious roll.
Exploring New England: Coastal Towns, City Streets & Timeless Charm
Planning a trip to New England? Whether you’re chasing the perfect lobster roll, wandering cobblestone streets, or soaking up ocean views, this collection of travel guides covers the region’s most inviting destinations. From the creative pulse of Providence to the windswept beauty of Nantucket and the rugged Maine shoreline, you’ll find the best places to stay, dine, and explore - in every season.
Providence - Rhode Island’s Creative Capital
Visiting Providence: What Not to Miss - Art, history, charm wrapped into one walkable city.
Top 10 Dining Destinations in Providence - Chef -centric culinary experiences.
Visit Providence: Where to Stay in the Creative Capital - Boutique hotels, historic inns.
Coastal Calm: Day Trips from Providence That Skip the Crowds - Coastal escapes a short drive.
Block Island - Weekend Getaway
Massachusetts - Cape & Islands Getaways
Nantucket Revisited: A Weekend to Remember - A return to the island with fresh discoveries.
Where to Stay in Nantucket: Embrace Coastal Living - Historic inns to breezy beachfront retreats.
Coastal Maine — Seaside Towns & Timeless Charm
Under the Elms & By the Sea: A Weekend in Castine, Maine - Maritime history meets coastal living.
Summer in York: A Maine Coastal Escape - Beaches, harbor walks, peaceful.
Follow @thiscafelife on Instagram for local tips, café finds, and coastal adventures.
How to Remove Meat from a Lobster
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